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Car Care Tips
WASHING
YOUR CAR
Taking proper steps in washing your car
can enhance the effort of detailing. Proper washing will keep
contaminants off your paint finish and reduce dulling and
deterioration of the paint finish.
You should never wash your car in open sunlight
if possible. Also make sure the car is cool. Wash water and
rinse water evaporates too quickly and tends to leave water
spots which are salt and mineral deposits. Such deposits are
capable of eating through wax and etching paint if left on
the painted surface for any length of time. Use lukewarm or
cool water. Water which is too hot or too cold can cause a
shock to the paint and lead to microscopic fractures of the
paint surface.
Never use household detergent --powdered
or liquid-- these soaps are formulated to scour metals, plastics
and porcelains to remove grease and oil. The mere fact that
soap is advertised as being gentle to your hands does not
mean it is gentle to your paint/wax finish. Many of these
soaps have high sodium or alkaline content and are too strong
for automotive care. These soaps can accelerate paint oxidation
by depleting the oils from the paint and also removing existing
wax. Use a pH balanced or neutral (pH7) soap on your car.
Always check the label of the soap you are using for a listing
of all the ingredients. You are better off using too little
soap than too much. Too much soap will leave a residue if
not rinsed off thoroughly.
Soaps provide a lubrication to the cleaning
process going on between the sponge or mitt and the painted
surface.
Wash the car from the top down. Some detailers
use different sponges or mitts for the upper part of the car
from the lower part of the car, since there are more dirt
particles on the lower part of a vehicle closer to the road.
Rinse the car often during the washing process. Use a large
bucket like an old 5 gallon joint compound bucket or a plastic
bucket from your favorite local donut shop.
Adding a teaspoon of vegetable oil to the
bucket prior to adding water and soap will assist the soap
in carrying away the dirt particles from the painted surface
during the washing process.
In drying your car, use at least a couple
of towels; one to quickly push the water off the car, the
other to dry the surface of the car. Open up all doors and
lids on the vehicle to enable semi exposed areas to dry completely.
If you insist on a chamois, use only an English Cod Oil tanned
chamois. Other chamois may remove wax and eventually scratch
the paint surface. Synthetic silicone-free chamois are available
for quick and easy water removal from the car. In any event,
the final drying procedure should be done with a cotton towel.
INTERIOR
DETAILING
Auto detailers and full-service carwash operators
who combine proper cleaning techniques with cleaning equipment
and products appropriate for the task can avoid many of the
problems associated with interior detailing. Some of these
problems include: prolonged upholstery and carpet drying time,
frozen or soggy seats, mildew odors, and, in general, unsatisfactory
cleaning results.
For most vehicle interiors, the following
procedures will produce consistent, satisfactory cleaning.
However, special problems or more intense cleaning may require
additional attention. Here are the routing steps that should
precede each interior detail:
Inspect the fabric.
Identify the fabric to be cleaned. Most fabrics in vehicles
are made of synthetic fibers such as nylon or olefin. Occasionally,
leather or a natural fiber such as wool is used in some luxury
vehicles. These require special care like a milder cleaning
product.
Identify problems areas.
Areas of wear, spots/stains, color loss or change should be
identified immediately, and the customer should be told about
such problems before the vehicle interior cleaning begins.
Related problems, such as smoke odors, should also be noted.
Pre-vacuum.
Pre-vacuum all fabric areas, especially car mats, prior to
cleaning. Removal of loose, dry soil, sand and grit can make
cleaning significantly easier.
Pre-spray. An
effective pre-spray product can have superior oil and grease-dissolving
abilities. Spills such as coffee and soda as well as body
oils that may accumulate on head and arm rest areas will dissolve
if the pre-spray is properly formulated. Many pre-sprays are
diluted with water and lightly misted onto the affected areas
prior to cleaning with a low-pressure sprayer. Often, a five-
to 10-minute dwell time is necessary before cleaning should
begin.
Use Minimum
Moisture
Most customer complaints about interior detailing
relate to fabric overwetting. Overwetting can cause customer
inconvenience and, at its worst, result in fabric damage or
mold/mildew growth.
A professional cleaning system that employs
a low-moisture cleaning agent, soft brushes to gently loosen
soil, and a vacuum to lift soil from the fabric can clean an
area effectively without overwetting the fabric. Drying time
for upholstery inside cars, trucks and vans can be less than
one hour when such a procedure is followed.
Leather
Fortunately, most leather in vehicle interiors
is "finished." That means it has a coating on it that makes
the surface smooth and shiny. Finished leather can be cleaned
with a mild, low-moisture detergent solution, gently applied
to the fabric, followed by buffing with a soft cloth. Leather
conditioner should be applied after cleaning to prevent the
leather from becoming brittle and distorted.
Unfinished leather does not have a coating.
It should not be cleaned with any amount of moisture since
shrinkage, warping, distortion and water marking can result.
If the headliner or fabric on the roof interior
is to be cleaned, test the fabric before cleaning. If the
adhesive that secures the headliner has weakened, separation
can occur during cleaning. Use limited moisture and gentle
brushing to clean headliners.
Stomp Out Odor
Problems
Smoke and odors related to spillage, vomit
and urine should be treated with products formulated to attack
and remove the source of these odors. Some of these products
are applied during cleaning, while others may be applied to
the fabric separately, using a low-pressure sprayer after
cleaning.
Perfuming agents do not permanently eliminate
the severe odors caused by smoke or bacteria growth. The fragrance
left behind by deodorizers is only temporary.
While effective cleaning techniques usually
remove most spots, stubborn spots may require the use of specialty
spot removers formulated to attach specific substances. Some
discoloration, incidentally, may be permanent stains that
cannot be removed no matter what product is used.
Spot removal agents must be compatible with
fabrics and dyes, and testing for colorfastness in an inconspicuous
area is generally recommended. Pour spot removers onto a clean,
white towel and blot onto the spot to avoid overwetting or
spreading the stain.
VINYL and
RUBBER CARE
Vinyl finishes can be damaged by use, heat, cold, UV radiation,
and exposure to solvent based waxes and cleaners. There are
manufacturing processes which utilize formaldehyde as the
solvent base for elasticity and organic protection.
Using solvent or formaldehyde based vinyl treatments can
accelerate vinyl finish deterioration by changing the original
chemical balance. As in leather treatment, use non-solvent,
non-formaldehyde oil based feeding products. The feeding is
performed by releasing trapped solvents and restoring original
moisture into the vinyl.
Some vinyl surfaces may need several coats or applications
in order to restore the original luster to the vinyl finish.
Always allow the solution to remain on the surface of the
vinyl for a few minutes before wiping or buffing. Vinyl surfaces
should be cleaned on occasion with normal car wash solution.
In some cases where there is noticeable build up of previous
layers of vinyl dressing, use a vinyl and rubber cleaner before
applying the vinyl treatment.
Some conditioners contain a sunblock for UV protection.
In any event, the care and maintenance of vinyl finishes requires
continual attention because of its exposure to various forms
of deterioration.
ENGINE CLEANING
For those who insist on cleaning your engine,
there are some precautions that should be followed.
Due to the complex electrical engine components,
try to cover the fuse box, computer, and distributor cap.
You can use plastic baggies or aluminum foil. Do
not remove the air cleaner.
Armed with a hose and spray nozzle, wet
down the hood, fenders, and any painted parts that the cleaner
may come in contact with (due to overspray, etc.). As far as a
cleaner, you can try bug and tar remover, whitewall cleaner,
simple green, or any commercial degreaser. Use a spray bottle
to cover the underside of the hood, hinges, and the engine
compartment. Let soak for a few minutes. For extra dirty areas,
try brushes of various sizes to get into the nooks and crannies.
Rinse the engine with water. Don't spray
the underside of the hood (the insulation can fall apart).
Optimally, the engine should be dried with
an air hose, if available. I have even used a vacuum cleaner
(crevice nozzle) on exhaust to help remove some of the water
that may collect on certain parts of the engine. At the very
least, you should start the engine and let run until hot.
This will remove some of the moisture that was left from the
rinse.
If you attempt to clean your engine at a
self wash (high pressure wand), be careful not to get to close
with the high pressure spray.
Certain vehicles are more tempermental when
moisture collects under the hood.
EXTRA CAUTION should be taken with
BMW's, Ferraris, Jaguars, Infiniti G20's, and Mercedes.
Oldsmobiles with Quad 4 engines are a problem due to the
placement of the distributor. Jeep Grand Cherokees
have a tendency to have problems a day or two after getting
wet.
When in doubt don't get water under the hood.
An alternative would be to get a damp rag and hand clean.
PAINT REPAIR
Paint damage is one of the most common
auto body problems encountered.
Blemishes can result from:
- Incorrect painting procedures.
- Nicks and scratches from road debris.
- Environmental damage from sunlight and acid rain.
- Chemical damage from oil and gas spills.
- The improper use or type of cleaners and waxes.
Diagnosis begins with a visual and physical examination.
The senses of touch and sight are very important. In some
cases, paint damage can be felt more easily by hand than it
can be see with the naked eye. Remember, never remove more
than 0.5 mil of paint unless you are going to apply paint
to the damaged surface.
Repair Rules
and Guidelines
Once you have determined the type and extent of the damage,
you can repair it. Fortunately, the fix doesn't have to be
a major repair hassle. Just keep in mind some basic rules.
First of all, most vehicles use a two part paint application,
a base coat and a clear cost. If any section of the clear
coat is removed, the whole body panel must be repainted with
clear coat.
Secondly, always use the right tools. For example, using
a high speed buffer will burn paint, leave wheel marks and
remove too much clear coat. Be especially careful when using
these tools and only use them if necessary.
Thirdly, it's critically important to use the proper sanding
techniques when working on today's base coat/clear coat finishes.
Don't forget, sanding should always be done in a back-and-forth
motion. Do not use a cross-hatch motion. Checkerboard patterns
are very difficult to remove and smooth out.
Mild Paint Contamination Repair procedures vary from vehicle
to vehicle and depend on the severity of the damage. Mild
spotting conditions can usually be fixed with hand polishing.
Minor etching, orange peel or smudging of the clear coat layer
can be reduced with light wet sanding, followed by hand buffing
and polishing. If the spotting and etching damage is still
present, a more aggressive cutting-type repair will be required.
Touching
up Minor Scratches and Chips
When a painted metal surface has been scratched or chipped,
it should be touched up as soon as possible to prevent corrosion
damage. Let's see how it's done:
- Scrape off any loose paint or rust from inside the
chip or scratch.
- Clean the entire area with road tar remover and allow
it to dry thoroughly.
- Fill the inside of the damaged area with a coat of
filler/primer. Be careful not to overlap the primer onto
the good surface. Allow it to dry hard.
- Cover the filler/primer with color touch-up paint and
allow it to dry hard.
- On vehicles without clear coat, lightly wet sand the
touch-up color with 600 grit paper and polish the area with
rubbing compound.
- On vehicles with clear coat, carefully apply clear
coat with a small applicator brush to the touch up paint.
Allow to dry hard.
- The area can be sanded and polished as described in
Step 5, if desired.
Liability
Disclaimer
The reader is expressly
warned to consider and adopt all safety precautions that might
be indicated by the activities described herein and to avoid
all potential hazards.
By following the instructions
herein, the reader willingly assumes all risks in connection
with such instructions.
Dick Taylor Automotive
shall not be liable for any special, consequential or exemplary
damages resulting, in whole or in part, from the reader's
use of , or reliance upon, this material.
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